A brief history of tartan and the kilt

“ The world’s response to tartan, as a bold, attractive and incomparable design, has taken tartan beyond the borders of traditions. But from the souvenir to high fashion it conveys a message of national identity, and throughout the world that message says Scotland. There is no other pattern like it.” Hugh Cheape, Curator, National Museums of Scotland.

The words ‘Tartan’ and ‘kilt’ as they are understood today are almost synonymous. Both conjure up the image of a Scotsman in his national dress.

Prior to its evolution in the 17th and 18th centuries, the “plaid” as the whole garment was known (“breacan” in gaelic) was a success due its versatility and it was worn by both upper and lower classes. The garment, which in Gaelic “plaide” meant blanket, would be slept in by the lower classes, in the fashion of a modern sleeping bag. In the morning the plaid would be pleated (kilted) to reduce the size of the material and then belted around the waist. The excess material would then be hoisted over the shoulder (left if you are wearing one for a wedding) and tucked into the waist belt at the back or front depending on the length of the material. In some cases the plaid would be brooched at the shoulder. In fact the word “plaid” in Scots was the name given to woven twilled cloth used for bed coverings and garments.

In time the kilt and plaid, as we now know it, were separated and although sometimes worn together were not inseparable as they once had been.

The origins of tartan are at best unclear and it is generally accepted that the history is based on sentiment and half-truths rather than fact. However it is believed that the word ‘tartan’ comes from the French word ‘tiretaine’, which existed around the 16th century and is believed to refer to a heavy cloth.

As long as weaving has existed so have checks and stripes, as the limitations in dyeing quality meant that even a plain fabric would have different shades. However this would have been developed so that dark and light wool would be used to create a definite check or stripe. The earliest evidence of this is in a piece of checked cloth found in Falkirk and believed to be from the 13th century.

Until the 16th century the dyes used would have been natural, such as onion skins, heather and Flowers of Ragwort and meant that the tartans were of muted colour and a long way from the vivid tartans we know today. So much so, Clansmen would not have been able to distinguish their clan by it, but would instead resort to badges etc for this purpose.

In fact, recognisable clan tartan did not exist until around the time of the Jacobite Rebellion in 1745.

That tartan survived at all is miraculous. Prince Charles Edward Stewart (Bonnie Prince Charlie) leader of the Jacobite forces, adopted highland dress as a uniform for his army and in so doing more firmly associated the fear instilled by the fierce highland warrior with the wearing of tartan. This led to tartan being outlawed by the English monarchy under The Disarming Act of 1746.

However, during this time the Scottish regiments of the army were exempted from the ban and continued to wear the tartan. The ban was eventually lifted in 1782 when the Duke of Montrose introduced a bill to repeal the 1746 Act. It was interesting that there were no dissenters to the bill.

Since then tartan’s popularity has been helped along by a number of events:-

1815: The Highland Society of London began collecting tartans by appealing to families for donations.

1822: a visit to Scotland by tartan clad George IV, brought exposure to tartan which affected fashion in Paris and London.

1826: James Logan a Scot, published a list of 54 tartans which he authenticate.

1842: following Queen Victoria’s first visit to Scotland, she endorsed the wearing of tartan by wearing it herself whilst in retreat at Balmoral.

1902: Commun an Fheilidh (The Kilt Society) was founded and based in Inverness which purpose was “To encourage and perpetuate the wearing of Highland dress”.

Since this time the popularity of tartan has gone from strength to strength and there no signs of it going into decline.